Cycling to a Remote Bothy

There’s something undeniably special about setting off on a mini bicycle adventure - or any adventure, for that matter. Perhaps it’s the urgency to make every minute count and savour every bit of the experience. In a world where we’re all juggling too much at times, adventure is the counterbalance we all need. Make the most out it!

As you would expect, most of my adventures involve riding my bicycle, but sometimes it’s a long, soul-cleansing run in the hills. If I’ve packed my stove, coffee, some food, and maybe a bit of sleeping gear, it’s officially an adventure in my book.  

This time, my destination was a remote bothy - a basic shelter - perched on the edge of the stunning Exmoor National Park in South-West England. And I would be cycling there. With a rare window of good weather (a true gift in England!), two days off work, and a burning desire to escape, I jumped at the opportunity for a quick getaway.

After booking the bothy through the National Trust, I gathered my essentials, packed my bike bags, and set off. Clothes, sleeping bag, stove, coffee, a few odds and ends - and for dinner, a delicious freeze-dried curry I’d found. Simplicity at its finest.

The route stretched about 50 miles across Exmoor, starting near Wellington and heading toward the Exmoor coast, passing through Blue Anchor, Dunster, and Minehead. The day was flawless - bright blue skies, warm sunshine, and the serene quiet of country lanes. With summer still hanging in the air, I couldn’t help but smile as I pedalled along. I made my usual stop in Dunster for the least cycling-friendly lunch - a Cornish pasty - and laughed, remembering how I always eat one and then face a big hill, trying not to regret it!

From Dunster, I followed the coast road to Porlock, where I would finally tackle the toll road - a route that had long been on my cycling bucket list. The toll road takes a gentler climb toward Lynton and Lynmouth, avoiding the brutal 25%+ gradient that’s not for the faint-hearted. It didn’t disappoint. Stunning views greeted me at every switchback, each turn offering another postcard-perfect shot. I stopped often, camera in hand, capturing the rugged beauty of the landscape.

Of course, just as the ride was going so well, I was hit with a puncture at the top of the toll road. After two years of flat-free bliss, I had two in one day! With a faulty inner tube to wrestle and resorting to the old-school patch method, I finally got back on track. Continuing along the coast road, I enjoyed the beauty of the coastline in the late afternoon sunshine, almost oblivious to everything else around me, until I was abruptly taken away from my daydreaming to my back wheel completely locked up and the smell of rubber!  Unbeknownst to me, my rear saddle bag had become loose and was now jammed between the wheel.  After my double puncture incident, I was alarmed to see the tyre had completely broken up, showing the inner thread.  Not much I could do about it where I was - miles from anywhere, let alone a bicycle shop.  I would have to nurse it over the remaining miles.  I have been through worse mechanicals over the years.

I knew I was close to the bothy when I saw the Foreland Point National Trust sign - heading down a beautiful steep descent that felt endless, I couldn't help but think about climbing back up the next morning!

I was like an excited child at Christmas as I saw my shelter for the night tucked away on the hillside - isolated from the world, with nothing but the sea and sky for company. It was perfect, the solitude I’d been seeking.

More drama - I spent the next half hour trying to get inside the wrong keylock, wondering if I would be sleeping in the elements instead!  After releasing there was another keylock, I was inside.  It was perfect - plenty of space for three or four people, a sink, and to my delight, a stack of firewood waiting for me. Even a loo with a view!  After a long day of riding, there was nothing better than lighting a fire, firing up my stove, and cooking the curry I’d been dreaming about.

The next couple of hours were pure bliss. I sat by the fire, savouring the stillness of the night sky, enjoying my dinner, and indulging in a few treats I’d picked up along the way. After a day of hard exercise, we all deserve a little something sweet, don’t we?

Next up, that big hill to get home...